Bobbin and Baste

I’ve long been a fan of the big four pattern companies (Butterick, Vogue, McCalls & Simplicity) and never bothered to veer away from them to try something new. However more recently due to the vast online sewing community from across the globe, I have been seeing an emergence of sewers doing it for themselves and drafting their own patterns to sell. Patterns are available from such people/companies as Colette Patterns, Sewaholic patterns, and Megan Neilson patterns. What I do notice when I see these advertised and reviewed all over the internet is the amount of positive feedback for the patterns. Pattern review websites and bloggers alike seem to love the designs, the easy to follow instructions that only a true fellow home sewer could write, and flattering fit. The only drawback with these patterns is the price. Much like the choice between buying a top from Big W versus one from TopShop, you expect to pay more for better quality. You also know you are supporting a smaller company and often a local one, thus the prices are dearer.

I mentioned Megan Neilson patterns earlier as one of the emerging pattern designers, and one of the best things about her – she’s an Aussie! Hailing from Perth, you see people from all over the world sewing up her designs. I had my eye on her Kelly skirt pattern for a while and finally bought it a couple of months back to sew a floral printed version that falls to below the knees, having a bit of a 70’s vibe. I had been looking around for ages for a button front skirt pattern, none of the big pattern companies had one! I found some floral cotton from Spotlight and on the sale rack, so it cost me about $10. Bargain price and it was decent thick cotton too.

The pattern came through in the post a few days after ordering and I got stuck into reading it. I love seeing how the smaller pattern companies write up their instructions. Megan’s instruction booklet had clear instructions and illustrations and didn’t have as much of the sewing terminology that the bigger pattern companies do. Keep it simple stupid. This pattern would be great for a novice sewer who may be tackling their first skirt pattern. At the end of the booklet there are also ideas for how to mix it up and change aspects of the pattern – all great ideas too, like adding a scalloped edging on the skirt bottom.

I ended up sewing up this skirt in about one afternoon. I made next to no alterations except for taking in the sides a little to ensure the waistband was snug around my waist. I opted for white buttons as I plan on wearing it with a blouse with white buttons, so I thought it might be nifty if it matched. The pattern was a joy to sew up and I think I’ll give it another go in a denim version. The skirt is quite high waisted which is not something I am used to, but I think it suits the style of the skirt. A couple of things I did have to do to the skirt was to add a snap fastener between the second and third buttons as I felt the skirt gaped a bit due to how fitted it is on the waist. The snap fastener resolved any gaping perfectly. I also added belt loops on the sides and back as I plan on making a belt to wear with the skirt….eventually!

Spring racing carnival – my favourite race meet of the year. It’s the time to bring out the hat and doll up in bright colours and pretty frocks. Granted, not all outfits you see are pretty, but rather trashy instead. I always find race day a time to look lady like or at least stylish and not like you’re about to hit the clubs in Kings Cross.

A few of my mates and I were heading to the races in October 2012 and it was my opportunity to sew up something to wear. I opted to experiment with a Burda pattern as I had never tried them before. My trepidation in trying the pattern was the negative feedback I’d read or been told about their patterns over the years. I always thought I would make my own mind up instead of listening to the feedback, but it did concern me!  From what I remember they used to do their patterns without seam allowance which would have made them a bugger to cut out, but that seems to have changed now. I opted for pattern B7232 dress A, mainly because I loved the back on it with the buttons. I also liked how the bodice nipped in a bit at the straps; quite a popular look for dress at the moment.

At the same time I was making the pattern decision I went to a one off fabric sale by an Australian designer. Now by the life of me I cannot remember who it was! It wasn’t a designer I would buy from, but the sale was good. I walked away with a digital print silk, which looked a little like splashed paint and graffiti in one. It was a thicker silk, almost like a crepe so it was good to work with and cut. I also bought a white bemsilk lining given the fabric could have been a bit sheer in the whiter parts of the print.

As I started working through the patterns instructions, I have to say that I found them easy to follow. Any concern I had upfront with the pattern had now dissipated and I was crackin’ on with sewing the dress. I cut out a size 10 and had to do only a slight adjustment with taking in the sides of the skirt at the waist. It was a challenge to ensure the invisible zipper stayed flush against the back bottom given the light fabric, but I got to about 90% happy with it. I lined the skirt bottom which is not suggested in the pattern as I wanted to add weight and also just in case of it being see through. I also added two inches to the bottom of the skirt in case the pattern finished up a bit too short.

The biggest fit challenge came with the back pieces. This is probably not helped by the fact I have only myself to fit, so try fitting your own back! After a number of sessions of moving the triangles ever so slightly, I finally got there and could pinpoint where the buttons would need to be. I opted for some bright orange buttons that I found at my local Spotlight. I thought they suited the fabric colours well and the orange necklace I would be wearing with the dress.

The only drawback with this pattern is what you can’t wear a bra. With the backless style and the narrow shoulder straps the only bra I could see working would be strapless with a thin back strap, which is not something I have ever seen. Alternatively you could try those stick on bra cups. Never given them a go myself, so I can’t recommend them. Thankfully (although not always!) I have only small assets so this kind of dress works well with me. With a busy print, you can get away with hiding the fact you are braless at the races, which isn’t something one would expect for lady-like!

I headed to Myer department store the following week and bought a fascinator without having the dress with me. This was a bit of a gamble, but I think it paid off. It was a comfortable fascinator and the colour matched perfectly. Overall I am really happy with how the dress turned out and it has given me the confidence to try Burda patterns again. I’m particularly interested in their vintage patterns that they released recently. I might also add that I had a rather successful day at the races and won all but one of my bets. There’s something to be said on betting your favourite colours and names. Below is a pic of me and the lovely Sherry at the races.

A while back I wrote about the Gridlock sewing competition being run by Australian fabric store Tessuti. Well the results are in and I didn’t win. It’s not all bad though as I am glad to have given it a go and been part of a sewing community working towards the same goal. I will say, I’m not the least bit surprised I didn’t win given how much work and effort went in to some of the entries. The experience made me realise that people will work hard at the sewing machine for $1000 and that there are a lot of sewers out there in Oz…and we are of all ages. In fact, a number of those who entered are only teenagers. I love seeing sewing continuing down the generations. I guess we’ll always need clothes, so sewing will always have a place in the world!

I picked up the fabric at the Chatswood Tessuti store and thankfully it was discounted and cost me $40 all up. I say this, because quite frankly, if it wasn’t for this competition I would never have bought this fabric. The print did not appeal to me and don’t get me started on what it was like to sew with. I’m sure others loved it and I certainly didn’t pick the best dress to make with it, so me and the fabric did not become friends during this project.

I opted to sew up Simplicity 1755 - a pattern by Leanne Marshall. I still remember Leanne from her days as a contestant in Project Runway. I loved her work and was very excited to see she brought out patterns. I do love a good shirt dress so this one hit the mark. The fabric could also be used one either side so I figured I would do some contrasting much like the image on the sewing pattern.

I learnt quickly that this probably wasn’t the best material for this dress. It started with the pleated skirt. This material does not crease, despite copious ironing. Darn IT! So no sharp pleats on the skirt then. It was by this time I had cut out the pattern and dress pieces so I really had no other choice but to crack on with it. I also stumbled across the same problem with the pleats underneath the collar. They didn’t sit flush on my body and pushed the collar up a bit.

I cut out a size 12 and did have to make a couple of adjustments. For example, I had to take it in around the bust and waist as the fabric would not have looked good baggy. The fabric actually bit a bit of stretch in it (more fun) so it needed to be fitted. Because of the bulkiness of the material, I also opted to not include the tie waist. I just did a fitted waist band instead. I didn’t need anymore poofing around the butt area! What i did really like about the pattern was the raglan types sleeves. They felt comfortable and I think they looked good.

I took this sewing competition as an opportunity to give belt making a try. I had wanted to learn how to make my own fabric belts for aaages, especially as they look great on vintage dresses. I did not choose the best fabrics to try this – doh! Despite fabric issues, I loved making the belt. I had bought the belt kit from Sunni who has a blog and online store called A Fashionable Stitch. The kits are great with everything you need (except the eyelet tool) and clear instructions. My only problem was finding the hard surface to hammer the eyelets on to the belt without waking up the neighbours. I will be making plenty more fabric belts in the future and I think my next one will have to be in Liberty of London fabric.

I conclude in saying that I did not entirely enjoy making this as I guess the fabric wasn’t my style and its use in the pattern I chose wasn’t ideal. I always notch up these experiences as practise and I will give the pattern another go. I’m thinking it would look great in a cotton sateen. Till next time!

Today was like a second Christmas. Thanks to my lovely dear friend Sacha I was gifted bags of vintage sewing patterns and fabric mostly dating back to the seventies. Sacha had mentioned to her aunt that I was a sewer and as luck would have it; her aunty was retiring from her sewing and looking to clear out the fabric and pattern stash at her house. Vintage patterns are a bit of an obsession of mine. I love to trawl through EBay in search of vintage patterns in good quality and for only a few bucks each. I’ve certainly noticed over the past few years as all things vintage is back in vogue so patterns are now harder to come by and more expensive. Most of the patterns I’ve bought I’ve not even used, I just love collecting them and looking at the beautifully illustrated images on the pattern covers. There’s something lovely about seeing the fashion drawings on the covers rather than the styled photographs of today.

The only drawback with buying vintage patterns is the sizing and there are two reasons. Firstly, you may see some patterns you love online but they won’t always be available in the size you want, it’s not like purchasing from a store. Secondly, the sizing 40-50 years ago is different to what it is today. What I notice the most is that waists were tiny and the bust sizing bigger (this probably had more to do with the fact they had bullet bras underneath the dress!). I read recently that the vintage reproduction patterns the big four sewing pattern companies release these days are often re-sized for today’s figures. They don’t pull the patterns from the archives and straight onto the selves without some tweaking. Thankfully the patterns I have been gifted are in sizes I can work with easily – bonus!

I look forward to having a closer look at the stash and choosing what to make first. Here’s a few of my favourites in the mix below. I loved the pattern that was mailed out from the Sun Herald Pattern service. Why don’t they do this now!